Doug Robinson, born in 1945 in California, is an iconic figure in American mountaineering, internationally recognized for his achievements in climbing and cross-country skiing, as well as for his writings on the intimate relationship between humans and the mountains. Nicknamed "the father of clean climbing" in Yosemite Valley, he played a central role in the clean climbing revolution, a practice that prohibits the use of pitons in order to preserve the integrity of the walls.
Adopting the use of nuts—removable protective equipment brought back from England by Royal Robbins—in the late 1960s, Robinson became their most ardent advocate and contributed greatly to their technical perfection. The 1972 ascent of the Regular Route on the northwest face of Half Dome, completed alongside Galen Rowell and Dennis Hennek without pitons, heralded this new era. The feat, immortalized on the cover of National Geographic, catalyzed a radical transformation in the Californian mountaineering community, which now embraced a more respectful approach to rock climbing.
Doug Robinson discovered the vertical world at an early age thanks to long summers spent in Tuolumne and Yosemite, guided by his nature-loving parents. In the 1960s and 1970s, he made a number of firsts on granite, ice, and mixed terrain in the Sierra Nevada: among other things, he achieved the first ascent of Dark Star on Temple Crag, a now legendary 30-pitch route, and the first ice ascents of V-Notch and Lee Vining Icefall with Yvon Chouinard. He participated in the second ascent of the Himalayan peak Ama Dablam alongside Jeff Lowe and others in 1979, an expedition filmed for ABC Sports.
Robinson collaborated on the development of innovative equipment such as stoppers and Tube Chocks for the Chouinard Equipment company (later Black Diamond), making his mark on climbing history by improving protective gear. He founded training programs, taught at Foothill College, directed the Palisade School of Mountaineering, and chaired the first edition of the American Mountain Guides Association. An inspiring guide, he shared his mountain knowledge with the economic elite—such as William Randolph Hearst III and Apple executives—as well as apprentice guides and ordinary enthusiasts. His commitment shaped an entire generation of climbers, as well as cross-country skiers: he participated in the first continuous ski traverse of the John Muir Trail, a 400-kilometer route, in 1970, and traced numerous telemark descents in the Sierra Nevada and as far as Mount Rainier.
With a bachelor's degree in English from San Francisco State University, Doug Robinson has established himself as a notable author. His book "A Night on the Ground, a Day in the Open" is hailed for its poetic prose, making him "a modern-day John Muir" according to his readers. In "The Alchemy of Action," he explores the psychological dimension of mountaineering. He speaks at conferences, produces educational videos, and is committed to promoting a responsible and humane mountain culture.
Now living in Kirkwood, California, alongside his partner Eva Eilenberg, Robinson continues to explore the mountains, passing on his passion to his children and an entire community.
2014
